A Patek Philippe 1415 ‘World Time’ With Rare ‘Flat’ but Dyslexic Bezel at Phillips – Vintage Rolex and other iconic timepieces under the loupe at Perezcope
A pink gold Patek Philippe Ref. 1415 ‘World Time’ with a daily non-enamel dial however a peculiar ‘flat’ bezel was simply offered at Phillips in Geneva for the spectacular sum of CHF 444,500, incl. premium. A world report. More than double what common pink gold examples can attain. It was the uncommon ‘flat’ bezel, which, in accordance Phillips’ essay, offers the watch a “rather more masculine and even brutalist aesthetic vibe”, that did the trick. Now, by no means earlier than has a particularly highlighted half been extra clearly incorrect—truly comically unsuitable—than on this case. The solely factor extra apparent would have been if the bezel had featured engravings executed within the notorious Comic Sans typeface.
LOT 143 – PateK Philippe Ref. 1415 ‘World Time’ , 655713, 962483
At first look, the current lot appears like a daily post-war Patek Philippe ‘World Time’ wristwatch. Its revolving bezel with world cities (plus sure nations, islands, and states of the United States), nevertheless, is something however common. The floor is flat, whereas in all different identified examples it’s subtly convex and sloping in direction of the periphery. The knurling is significantly wider than traditional. Also, the crown is a later substitute. Crowns from the interval didn’t characteristic the Calatrava cross.
Auction hyperlink: Lot 143 – Patek Philippe Ref. 1415, 655713, 962483 (phillips.com)
As a graphic designer, what caught my eye first was one thing else totally. The modern-looking typeface, the awkward kerning (spacing) between a few of the letters (BO MBAY, SING APORE, AL ASKA), and, after all, the truth that some engravings are fatter than others. If we evaluate the inscriptions to a daily bezel from the period, e.g., 655707-962975, the current bezel appears completely misplaced with its modern-looking typeface, missing any serifs (quick strokes that stretch past the ends of characters). The places look pantograph-engraved, whereas on common bezels they seem hand-engraved.
I used to be so centered on the poor typography and execution that I fully missed probably the most comical aspect of this bezel. Many of the places are literally misspelled. My pal Baruch (IG: @budgecoutts) found this after I highlighted the bezel’s incorrect typography in one in all my Instagram tales. At the time of manufacturing, Patek Philippe supplied these bezels in two languages, French and English. The current ‘flat’ bezel is clearly English. It says London, not Londres, Moscow, not Moscou, and Mauritius Isld (Mauritius Island), not I. Maurice (Île de Maurice). If we take a look at Fiji Island, they forgot the ‘i’ in ‘isld’. The ‘h’ in Tahiti is after the ‘T’. It says Thaiti. Montreal is written Monreal with out the ‘t’. Rio de Janeiro is lacking the ‘i’ in ‘Janeiro’. Pekin is kinda French, although it lacks the accent aigu on the e (Pékin). At the time, the proper English identify for Beijing was Peiping.
The operator who inscribed this bezel should have had dyslexia or one thing. On high of that, he was additionally a horrible craftsman with no sense for typography in any way. If we had been to look beneath the bezel, I believe we might discover traces of dried spaghetti sauce. One should be incurably gullible to imagine the current bezel handed Patek Philippe’s high quality verify. Listen to what auctioneer Aurel Bacs stated right here:
“We have fortunately some extraordinary relationships with collectors who by now perceive precisely what we imply with darkish yellow, darkish champagne, ivory coloured patina. Whom we will information throughout the planet, throughout oceans on watches value tens of millions. That is a privilege. But it took us tens and tens of years ourselves to get in sync with the language that we each communicate.”
Let’s see if I obtained this proper. So, these discerning collectors… whom Mr. Bacs guides “throughout the planet, throughout oceans on watches value tens of millions”… they’d by no means fall for a bezel as comical as the current ‘flat’ one and pay greater than double for it, would they?
Known Provenance
1989 – First look
The current watch was first auctioned in October 1989 by Habsburg, Feldmann S.A., a Geneva-based public sale home that on the time was in a three way partnership with Antiquorum. While the watch depicted within the catalogue featured the identical bezel as at the moment, the essay said:
“flat revolving bezel bearing the names of 41 cities on the earth”
41 was the standard variety of places featured on Ref. 1415 bezels in 1948. However, the bezel featured solely 29 places. Except for mentioning the ‘flat revolving bezel’, there appears to have been no try and hype the watch as a prototype. It is unclear whether or not the watch was offered. In the net catalogue overview, the watch is said as offered for CHF 250,000, which is an ungainly spherical quantity provided that the public sale home charged a ten% premium on the hammer worth. However, the itemizing itself doesn’t state both an estimate or a promoting worth.
Auction hyperlink: Lot 409 – Patek Philippe Ref. 1415 ‘World Time’ , 665713, 962483 (antiquorum.swiss)
2001 – Passed
The watch got here up for public sale once more at Antiquorum in March 2001, however remained unsold. For apparent causes, I’d say. The ‘flat’ bezel is so comically unsuitable that solely a collector completely brainwashed by public sale home specialists would fall for it. The essay made the next statements:
“Very positive and doubtless distinctive, 18K pink gold, gentleman’s wristwatch with particular case.”
“hand engraved revolving reeded flat edged bezel bearing thenames [sic] of 29 cities on the earth”
“This watch is especially uncommon and its rarity consists within the flat bezel and the case which is formed like a coin.”
Here we will see a transparent try and hype this watch as one thing particular. While the bezel is certainly uncommon, the case is just not. It is a daily Ref. 1415 case.
Auction hyperlink: Lot 566 – Patek Philippe Ref. 1415 ‘World Time’, 655713, 962483 (antiquorum.swiss)
2025 – World Record
Phillips hinted on the 1989 public sale within the catalogue essay, and likewise talked about the 2001 sale, whereas omitting the necessary proven fact that the watch didn’t discover any patrons:
“Accompanied by Habsburg Feldman Certificate of Authenticity dated October fifteenth 1989.”
“Last showing available on the market in 2001 and residing in the identical assortment for many years, the current piece is among the most intriguing examples of reference 1415 to seem available on the market ever.”
The Habsburg, Feldmann S.A. certificates of authenticity talked about by Phillips is just not definitely worth the paper it’s printed on, provided that it was topic to the situations of sale, which clearly said that the public sale home assumed no duty. Auction homes by no means assure the authenticity of their tons. The positive print states that the customer accepts duty for conducting inspections and investigations to fulfill themselves relating to the tons they could be fascinated with. If there are authenticity points, Phillips requires the customer to supply, at his personal expense, the written opinions of two acknowledged consultants authorised prematurely by the public sale home. On whose aspect do you assume the 2 acknowledged consultants authorised by Phillips will likely be? Folks, you gotta learn the positive print. The reality is, there’s completely no tangible details about the origins and provenance of the ‘flat’ bezel, but Phillips felt assured to name it a prototype:
“While no particular details about the genesis of this design is thought, it was most certainly a prototype equally to the bean-shaped lugs reference 1416 made in three items. It is sensible that the current piece retained the reference quantity 1415 because the case physique is similar as a typical instance, the distinction mendacity within the bezel.”
Imagine paying practically half 1,000,000 Swiss Francs primarily based on the above waffle. Note additionally how Phillips said that the case is normal, whereas in 2001, Antiquorum claimed that even the case was particular (formed like a coin). To pocket extra charges, public sale homes will say something.
Thoughts
Seldom was a ‘prototype’ half extra comical than the uncommon ‘flat’ bezel of the current Patek Philippe Ref. 1415 ‘World Time’. The timeline reveals that this watch did not promote at the least as soon as. Knowing how the sport is performed, the primary public sale in 1989 was in all probability orchestrated to present the watch a provenance. The promoting worth of CHF 250,000 is not sensible in lots of respects. The price would have been in Ref. 2523 ‘World Time’ territory, which was significantly extra sought-after and worthwhile on the time. Also, CHF 250,000 incl. 10% premium is an oddly spherical quantity. What was the hammer worth? CHF 227,272.72? Then once more, the worth is simply displayed within the overview. In the element view, there’s neither an estimate nor a promoting worth.
Auctions are, as a rule, a circus the place the clowns and impostors have taken over the present. Just take heed to their superfluous waffle. Everything these individuals say must be taken with a truckload of salt. Their sole raison d’être is to hype issues as much as make their charges as fats as potential. Also, by no means depend on mainstream watch media individuals. They are additionally within the hype enterprise, and for entry, they are going to promote their moms. Collectors must take the positive print critically and act upon it. Do not depend on catalogue essays and situation experiences. It is generally horological fluffery. Request high-resolution photographs of all essential particulars, and, if potential, examine the watch in particular person.
As for the uncommon ‘flat’ bezel, probably the most believable rationalization is that the unique bezel went lacking and a third-party producer produced a substitute.
Thank you for the laughs.
