The 2020 Aquastar Deepstar (emphasis on ‘star’) is a re-issue of the traditional Sixties dive watch. This isn’t the primary re-creation of a watch from a historic catalogue, and it gained’t be the final. What makes it particular are some things – one, the recreation is excellent, and two, the motion.
First, some historical past
The unique Deepstar used a Valjoux 23, a hand-wound, column-wheel, mono-compax with working seconds at 9. The mono-compax means there’s only one register accumulating chronograph time elapsed.
The Valjoux 23 is known as a Lépine-style building. It’s derived from the Lepine pocket watch, which locations the stem is reverse the fourth wheel (which drives the seconds hand). That’s the traditional place for a pocket watch – stem at 12 and sub-dial at 6, first named by Lepine. A Lepine motion with the stem at 3 has the seconds subdial at 9.
The outdated Aquastar was branded by just a few completely different manufacturers – Duward, Lorenz, and I’m certain others, too.
… and right this moment
Let’s simply say it: The 2020 model is fairly trustworthy to the Sixties Deepstar. The bezel has a decompression scale, which some variations within the 60s had.
The Deepstar has gained 10 further ATM water resistance over the unique, for a complete of 200 meters water resistance.
What’s actually nice right here is that the proportions are held over from the unique. The measurement is a contemporary however comfy 40.5mm as a substitute of the classic 38mm.
The unique motion was a hand wound Valjoux 23. It used a column wheel. The two forms of building for the chronograph pushers to really have interaction and reset the Chrono are cam-and-lever or column wheel. The Patek, outdated Valjoux, and even the reasonably priced China made ST19 household derived from old style Venus actions are column wheel. The ETA 7750 household are Cam and lever.
Cam and lever and column wheel have about the identical quantity of components. Column wheels usually really feel simpler and extra easy to function.
What makes the 2020 Aquastar Deepstar fascinating is, it’s not utilizing an ETA 7750 household motion. Aquastar describes this as a “High finish Swiss Made Manufacture caliber, Mono-Compax Column Wheel mechanical Chronograph,” and it’s.
But whose? There are comparatively few Swiss manufacture calibers with built-in chronograph (not a module stacked on high of a 3-hand motion.)
Integrated chronographs incorporate the chronograph mechanisms into the three-hand motion. Famous built-in chronograph actions embrace: all pre-70’s classic hand-wind chronographs, Zenith El Primero; the Valjoux 7750 (and all earlier Valjoux hand-wind chronographs); the Lemania 870, 1870, 2310, 1340, the Rolex 4130; the Breitling B01; and the TAG-Heuer 1887.
This is isn’t any of these. This is an automated that’s related in perform to the hand-wound Venus 175. If you had been struggling to determine who made it, it’s “customized manufactured for the Deepstar by La Joux-Perret, and like its predecessor the Valjoux 23,” has column-wheel operated pushers.
The fact is, it doesn’t matter. If you just like the look, like the dimensions, they’re solely making 300 of those, so you might as properly snap it up. The Aquasar Deepstar requires a deposit of $3950. The Aquastar Deepstar is offered at Aquastar.ch
Tech Specs from Aquastar:
- 40.5mm 316L Stainless Steel Case,
- LaJoux-Perret column wheel mono-compax automated chronograph motion
- Hour, minute and seconds indicators
- Operation indicator at 9
- 30 minute cease watch sub counter at 3
- Successive/Multiple dive non decompression desk calculator in response to the French Navy dive tables
- Steel gray sunburst dial design
- Applied stainless-steel markers/indices
- High density filling outdated gentle Radium tremendous luminova software
- excessive domed, AR triple coated sapphire crystal
- Matching colour Genuine unique Tropic rubber strap with signed Aquastar buckle Seatbelt NATO strap
- Stainless Steel BOR bracelet with fitted endlinks coming in January 2021