When it comes to creating their very own means, or taking their very own strategy, Moser is certainly on the head of the pack. They’re not doing issues with loopy timekeeping strategies or that, however they only take what’s identified, what’s excessive finish, after which put their very own explicit spin on it. Take, for example, the H. Moser Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel.
Now, you realize by the ‘Enamel’ in there that this watch incorporates a fumé dial, in a beautiful deep, darkish blue that I, for one, can not assist however to note. I’ve not really seen considered one of their dials in individual, however that doesn’t imply I can’t respect it from afar. That, and I’ve skilled true enamel dials prior to now, so it’s not a stretch to think about that right here.
The H. Moser Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel can also be a part of their heritage assortment, which implies they’ve appeared again at watches from their previous to see what they needed to leverage right here. To my eyes, that is most evident within the wire lugs, slender polished handset, and slim Roman numerals. All of this screams “that is how we used to do it”. The small seconds kind of steps a bit of ahead from that, after which the outsized date window simply says “welcome to the longer term, bub”. Not finished correctly, that enormous date window might be completely jarring, between it’s measurement and the font there. But, right here, effectively, it simply seems proper, and it’s pretty.
The date window within the H. Moser Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel is basically the star of the present, albeit one it’s possible you’ll not discover. Here, we’ve received a perpetual calendar motion. The small central hand signifies what month you’re in (handy, 12 months and 12 hours), which implies the date show (effectively, the motion) can take into consideration what number of days there are within the month, and really get itself adjusted appropriately. And even when this can be a “protected queen” that you just solely take out on the weekends, try to be good, because the motion really manages a 7-day energy reserve, so issues will keep on monitor.
Now, for the unhealthy information. The H. Moser Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel, given all of the work that’s finished within the motion and the truth that the case is manufactured from 18-carat white gold – oh, and that they’re solely making 20 of them – implies that the $110,000 is definitely becoming to the watch. Eye-watering, I’ll admit the value tag is. However, if I used to be the type to land into some strolling away cash sooner or later, it’s a watch like this that I may see ending up within the assortment. It’s the very overlap of the Venn diagram between haute horlogerie and If You Know You Know. Which means, effectively, it’d be me and like 3 of my associates who knew, however that’s okay. If you’re selecting up a Moser, you’re doing it for you, and nobody else. And within the meantime, maybe an Endeavor Center Seconds can be a great stepping stone. Check out the complete vary at h-moser.com
Tech Specs from H. Moser
- Reference 8800-0203, 18-carat white gold mannequin, Midnight Blue fumé enamel dial, blue alligator leather-based strap, restricted version of 20 items
- 18K white gold
- Blue enamel inserts on the case sides, engraving
- Diameter: 42.0 mm
- Height: 12,6 mm / 10,8 mm with out sapphire crystal
- Sapphire crystal
- See-through sapphire crystal case again
- Crown adorned with an “M”
- Midnight Blue fumé Grand Feu enamel
- Roman numerals
- Swallow-tail arms
- HMC 800 hand-wound calibre
- Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes
- Height: 6.3 mm
- Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h
- 32 jewels
- Power reserve: minimal 7 days
- Hacking seconds
- Double barrel
- Interchangeable Moser escapement
- Original Straumann® hairspring
- Pallet fork and escapement wheel produced from gold
- Movement and elements hand-finished and adorned
- Hours and minutes
- Small Seconds
- Perpetual calendar with date and month
- Big date show
- Month indicator by way of central hand
- Power reserve indicator
- Leap yr cycle indicator on motion facet
- Hand-stitched midnight blue alligator leather-based
- 18K white gold pin buckle engraved with the Moser brand
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